CELEBRATING THE RESTORATION OF THE CLUNY ESTATES (continued)

      "At five o'clock dinner was announced, and each gentleman with the utmost gallantry handed in his tartan-dressed partner. The table was covered with every luxury the vales of Badenoch, Spey, and Lochaber could produce, and a very substantial entertainment it was; game of all kinds, and venison in abundance . . . I had no conception of any room at Pitmain large enough to dine one-tenth of the party, but found that the apartment . . . was only used, being a malt kiln, on such occasions. When seated no company at St. James's ever exhibited a greater variety of gaudy colours, the ladies being dressed in all their Highland pride, each following her own fancy, and wearing a shawl of tartan . . ..

      "The dinner being removed, was succeeded by a dessert of Highland fruits, when, I may venture to say, that 'George the third,' -- and long may he reign ! -- was drank with as much unfeigned loyalty as ever it was in London. Several other toasts were likewise drank with three cheers, and re-echoed by the inferiors of the clan in the area around us. The ladies gave its several very delightful Erse songs; nor were the bagpipes silent . . ..

      "After the ladies had retired the wine went round plentifully, but, to the honour of the conductor of this festive board, everything was regulated with the utmost propriety, and, as we were in possession of the only room for dancing, we rose the earlier from the table, in compliance with the wishes of the ladies, who in this country are still more keen dancers than those of the southern parts of Britain.

      "After tea, the room being adjusted, and the band ready, we returned, and, minuets being by common consent exploded, danced with true Highland spirit a great number of different reels, some of which were danced with the genuine Highland fling, a peculiar kind of cut. It is astonishing how true all these ladies danced to time, and not without grace; they would be thought good dancers in any assembly whatever.

      "At ten o'clock the company repaired to the terrace adjoining the house, to behold as fine a scene of its kind as perhaps ever was exhibited. Bonfires in towns are only simple assemblages of inflammable matter, and have nothing but the cause of rejoicing to recommend them, but here the country people, vying with each other, had gathered together large piles of wood, peat, and dry heather on the tops of the different hills and mountains, which, by means of signals, being all lighted at the same time, formed a most awful and magnificent spectacle, representing so many volcanoes, which, owing to their immense height, and the night being totally dark and serene, were distinctly seen at the distance of ten miles. And while our eyes were gratified with this solemn view, our ears were no less delighted with the different bagpipes playing round us, when, after giving three cheers to the King, and the same to Mr. Pitt, etc., we returned into the ballroom. At one I withdrew, took some refreshment, and then returned home, highly delighted at having passed the day so very agreeably."